The strategy: Send a celebrity to hypnotize the second-tier food press into reproducing their relentless product pitch in print. The resulting newspaper “articles” read like ad copy. In this case, the article appeared, with lavish photos, as the front full-page lead of the food section in the printed paper, but, aptly, was later moved to the opinion section on the newspaper’s web site, photos omitted.
Unsavory Food Writing: The Case of Marco Pierre White - Ike DeLorenzo - Food - The Atlantic
Advertorial edivertisement. Marco Pierre White shills for Knorr bouillons on the stealth. Second-tier food press clamor to have audience with a culinary legend (second youngest to get Michelin star!) and reprint Knorr propaganda as Tao of White.
I can believe some chefs can make something of Knorr bouillon cubes, but this kind of bait and switch advertorials need to be checked. Food writing is a discipline abound with murky ethics (free food/drinks, paid jaunts to culinary destinations, etc.) that don’t come to attention because it’s deemed frivolous and inconsequential compared to other beats.